Gongfu tea

What it is

The equipment is small. There is an unglazed clay teapot or a porcelain lidded bowl called a gaiwan, a serving jug, and cups that hold two or three sips. They sit on a slatted tray that catches spilled water. The leaf to water ratio is high, the water is very hot, and each steeping is short. A good oolong or aged tea can give eight or more infusions. The drinker follows how the scent and taste change from the first cup to the last.

Where it comes from

The method is tied to the Chaoshan region of eastern Guangdong, around Chaozhou and Shantou, and to southern Fujian, where oolong teas are grown. In Chaozhou it is part of ordinary life. Shopkeepers keep a tray on the counter and pour for whoever stops by. The practice spread with migrants to Taiwan and Southeast Asia, and Taiwan developed its own refinements. China's tea processing techniques and the customs around them were added to the UNESCO heritage list in 2022.

How it works

The host rinses pot and cups with boiling water to warm them, then fills the pot with leaves. The first pour of water is often tipped away at once to wake the leaves. Then the pot is filled, covered, steeped briefly and emptied completely into the jug or straight across the cups in a circling motion so each gets the same strength. Guests drink, the host refills. Tea is taken plain. Small snacks such as nuts, dried fruit or pastries may be offered.

How to do it

1. Wait for the host to pour. Cups are filled in a round, not one by one.
2. Pick up the cup with thumb and forefinger, middle finger under the base.
3. Smell the tea first, then drink in two or three sips.
4. Put the cup back on the tray to be refilled.
5. Tap two fingers on the table to say thanks for each pour.

Good manners

• Do not add sugar or milk.
• Elders and guests are served first. The host drinks last.
• Leave your cup full if you have had enough. An empty cup will be refilled.

What is eaten

OolongA semi-oxidized Chinese tea with a wide range of flavors and aromasTieguanyinA Chinese oolong tea named for the Goddess of Mercy, with floral or roasted notesDa Hong PaoRare oolong tea from the Wuyi Mountains with a floral aroma and sweet finishPu'erAged and fermented tea from Yunnan, shaped into cakes or bricksPineapple cakeTaiwanese pastry with sweet pineapple jam inside a golden, crumbly shell

Sources and further reading

• Gongfu tea on Wikipedia
• UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: Traditional tea processing techniques and associated social practices in China