Night markets

What it is

Night markets sell small eats, called xiaochi in Mandarin. A stall usually makes one item and has made it for years. Portions are sized for sharing and for eating on foot: a skewer, a bun, a paper bag of fried chicken, a bowl of noodles at a folding table. Markets range from a few carts on a temple forecourt to long covered streets with hundreds of vendors. In Malaysia the equivalent is the pasar malam, which moves to a different neighbourhood each night of the week.

Where it comes from

Evening markets are recorded in Chinese cities many centuries ago. The modern Taiwanese night market grew around temples and transport hubs, where vendors gathered to feed worshippers and workers. As cities grew in the second half of the twentieth century the markets became fixed and famous. Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Hong Kong and mainland China all have their own long traditions, shaped by hot days that make the cool of the evening the natural time to eat outside.

How it works

Most markets start around five or six in the evening and run until midnight or later. There is no single bill and no order of courses. You pay each stall in cash or by phone as you go. Queues are the best guide. A long line of locals at an unremarkable cart is the stall to try. Seating, where it exists, belongs to the stall that put it out, so sit only where you have bought something.

How to do it

1. Arrive hungry at about seven, when everything is open and hot.
2. Walk the whole market once before buying.
3. Join the longest local queue.
4. Share each item so you can try more stalls.
5. Carry small cash and keep your rubbish until you find a bin.

Good manners

• Do not block the lane while you eat. Step to the side.
• Sit only at tables belonging to the stall you bought from.
• Bins are scarce. Hand skewers and cups back to the vendor if they offer.

What is eaten

Stinky tofuFermented tofu with a strong aroma, sold as a snack in China and TaiwanOyster omeletteA chewy egg and oyster dish fried with starch, popular across East and Southeast Asiagua baoSteamed folded bun filled with braised pork belly and condimentsSatayGrilled skewers of seasoned meat or seafood, often served with peanut saucePad thaiStir-fried rice noodles with egg, tofu, shrimp and peanuts, a Thai street food classicTanghuluSkewered fruit coated in a crisp sugar shell, a classic Northern Chinese street snackScallion pancakeLayered Chinese flatbread with scallions, pan-fried until crisp and chewy

Also part of it, and being written: Taiwanese fried chicken.

Sources and further reading

• Night market on Wikipedia
• Taiwan.gov.tw: Government Portal of the Republic of China (Taiwan)
• Taipei City Government