Hawker centres

What it is

A typical centre has from thirty to more than a hundred stalls around rows of fixed tables and stools. A stall may sell only chicken rice, only fried flat noodles, or only fish ball soup, and may have done so for three generations. Drinks stalls sell coffee, tea, sugarcane juice and lime juice. Many centres share a building with a wet market selling fresh produce. People eat breakfast, lunch and dinner there, and some stalls sell out and close by early afternoon.

Where it comes from

Hawkers were once street vendors who carried or pushed their kitchens through town. From the late 1960s Singapore's government licensed them and moved them into purpose-built centres with running water, drains and inspection, mainly for reasons of hygiene and order. The buildings are still publicly owned. Malaysia kept more of its street stalls but has many similar centres and food courts. Penang's capital, George Town, is especially known for its hawker food.

How it works

Find a seat first, then go to the stalls. You order and pay at each stall, and either wait and carry the food yourself or give your table number so it can be brought to you. You can combine dishes from any number of stalls. In Singapore, diners must return trays and crockery to the collection racks. Hygiene grades are displayed at each stall. A long queue is the most reliable guide to quality.

How to do it

1. Find a free seat and note the table number.
2. Walk the stalls once before choosing.
3. Queue, order and pay in cash or by QR code at the stall.
4. Buy a drink from a separate drinks stall.
5. Return your tray to the rack when you finish.

Good manners

• A packet of tissues or an umbrella on a table means the seat is taken. This is called chope.
• Sharing a table with strangers is normal. Ask before sitting.
• Use the right return rack. Halal and non-halal trays are kept apart.

What is eaten

LaksaSpicy Southeast Asian noodle soup with coconut or sour brothSatayGrilled skewers of seasoned meat or seafood, often served with peanut sauceHokkien meeEgg and rice noodles with pork, seafood and broth, popular in Singapore and MalaysiaBak kut tehPork ribs in a spiced herbal broth, served with fried dough and condimentsRoti canaiUnleavened flatbread tossed thin and cooked until crisp, served with curry or dalChilli crabCrab stir-fried in a sweet and spicy tomato-chilli sauceRojakA spicy-sweet fruit and vegetable salad with peanut and palm sugar dressing

Also part of it, and being written: Hainanese chicken rice, Char kway teow, Nasi lemak.

Sources and further reading

• Hawker centre on Wikipedia
• UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: Hawker culture in Singapore
• National Environment Agency, Singapore: Hawker management
• Roots (National Heritage Board, Singapore): Hawker culture