Izakaya

What it is

The menu is wide and built for drinking. There is sashimi, grilled skewers of chicken, fried chicken, salted soybeans in the pod, cold tofu, grilled fish, simmered dishes, pickles, salads and something filling at the end, such as rice balls, fried noodles or rice in tea. Drinks include draft beer, sake, shochu, highballs and sours. Izakaya range from tiny counters under railway arches with a red lantern outside to large chains with picture menus and tablets for ordering.

Where it comes from

Izakaya grew out of sake shops in the Edo period that began letting customers drink on the premises and then started selling simple food to go with it. They became the after-work meeting place of the city worker. Much of office social life in Japan still runs through them, including seasonal parties at the end of the year and to welcome new staff. Each region puts its own produce and local sake or shochu on the list.

How it works

Soon after you sit, a small dish you did not order arrives. This is the otoshi. It is charged per person and works as a table fee. Drinks are ordered first, and it is usual for everyone to start with the same thing so the first toast can happen quickly. Food is then ordered in rounds. You call staff with sumimasen or press a button on the table. Many places offer all-you-can-drink deals for a set time.

How to do it

1. Order drinks as soon as you sit down. Food comes after.
2. Wait for everyone to have a glass, then say kanpai.
3. Order two or three dishes at a time and share them.
4. Finish with rice or noodles, the shime, to close the meal.
5. Ask for the bill at the table and pay at the till by the door.

Good manners

• Do not refuse the otoshi. It is the cover charge.
• Pour for others and let them pour for you.
• Tipping is not done. Say gochisosama deshita as you leave.

What is eaten

YakitoriChicken skewers grilled over charcoal and seasoned with salt or tare sauceEdamameYoung green soybeans boiled or steamed in their pods, often served saltedKaraageJapanese marinated and deep-fried bite-sized chicken or fishSashimiThin slices of raw fish or meat, served with soy sauce and condimentsAgedashi dōfuCrisp tofu cubes served in a warm, savory Japanese brothOdenJapanese one-pot dish of assorted items simmered in soy-flavored dashi brothKushikatsuDeep-fried skewers of meat, seafood, and vegetables from JapanHiyayakkoChilled tofu served with savoury toppings and soy sauceTsukuneJapanese meatballs, often grilled on skewers or simmered in soups

Sources and further reading

• Izakaya on Wikipedia
• Japan-guide.com: Japanese restaurants
• Japan-guide.com: Alcoholic beverages in Japan