Food news
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Thali

North of the equator

In season in March

What is at its best this month, and the dishes built on it. Seasons shift with latitude and weather, so take this as a guide, not a rule.

fruit

Raw mango

Sour green mango, picked before the ripe crop, for pickles, chutney, dal and the cooling drink aam panna.

fruit

Tamarind

The sour pod behind sambar, rasam, pad thai, chutneys and the aguas frescas of Mexico.

Goes into: Zoomkoom, Bhel puri, Panipuri, Pad thai

vegetable

Rhubarb

Sour pink stalks, the first crop of the northern spring, for crumbles, pies, fools and compote.

Goes into: Toso

fruit

Orange

The winter fruit of the Mediterranean, Florida and Nagpur, for juice, marmalade and salads.

Goes into: Mulled wine, Negroni, Rooh Afza, Calisson

fruit

Blood orange

Grown on the slopes of Etna in Sicily. Eaten in salads with fennel and pressed for juice.

fruit

Pineapple

Eaten fresh across the tropics, grilled in Brazil, and baked into the tarts of Malaysia and Singapore.

Goes into: Rooh Afza, Al pastor, Canh chua, Chicha morada

fruit

Avocado

Native to Mexico, mashed into guacamole, sliced onto tortas, and blended into shakes in Indonesia.

Goes into: Guacamole, California roll, Pozole, Chilaquiles

vegetable

Artichoke

Fried whole in Rome, braised in Provence and Turkey, or boiled and eaten leaf by leaf.

Goes into: Salade niçoise

herb

Wild garlic

Foraged in European woods in spring, for soup, pesto and dumplings. Its North American cousin is the ramp.

vegetable

Spinach

A cool-weather leaf for palak paneer, spanakopita and Persian borani.

Goes into: Pakora, Ravioli, Börek, Japchae

vegetable

Drumstick (moringa)

Long green pods cooked in sambar and avial in south India. The leaves go into soups in the Philippines.

vegetable

Cassava

A staple root of Africa and South America, made into gari, fufu, farofa, tapioca and cassava bread.

Goes into: Bubble tea, Carimañola, Papadam, Fufu

fruit

Plantain

Harvested all year in the tropics. Fried green as tostones, ripe as dodo and maduros, or boiled and pounded.

Goes into: Pastelón, Fufu, Bhaji, Bandeja paisa

vegetable

Bamboo shoot

A spring delicacy in Japan and China, cooked with rice. Fermented in north-east India.

Goes into: Ramen, Tofu skin roll, Lumpia, Buddha's delight

vegetable

Leek

The emblem of Wales, in cawl and cock-a-leekie. In France it goes into vichyssoise and vinaigrette.

Goes into: Tofu skin roll, Ukha, Ghormeh sabzi, Pot-au-feu

vegetable

Fennel

A winter bulb in Italy, sliced raw with orange in Sicily or braised and baked with cheese.

Goes into: Akvavit, Ouzo, Merguez, Porchetta

vegetable

Green chickpeas

Fresh hara chana, a late winter treat in north India, roasted in the pod or cooked into curry.

other

Sugarcane

Cut in the cool season, pressed for juice, boiled into jaggery, and chewed at Pongal and Chhath.

Goes into: Grogue, Sugarcane juice, Arrack, Aguardiente

seafood

Oysters

Native oysters are eaten in the months with an R. Opened by the dozen in France at Christmas.

Goes into: Po' boy, Oyster omelette

seafood

Mussels

Best in the cold months. Steamed with wine and served with chips in Belgium and northern France.

Goes into: Moules-frites, Clambake

seafood

Cod (skrei)

Arctic cod reach the Lofoten islands to spawn in winter. Much of the catch is dried as stockfish.

Goes into: Dried and salted cod, Afang soup, Bacalhau, Baccalà mantecato

Photos from Wikimedia Commons under free licences; credits on the sources page.

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

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