Food news
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Thali

North of the equator

In season in June

What is at its best this month, and the dishes built on it. Seasons shift with latitude and weather, so take this as a guide, not a rule.

fruit

Mango

The summer fruit of South Asia, eaten ripe, pulped into aamras and lassi, or set over sticky rice.

Goes into: Thingyan rice, Mango sticky rice, Khao khluk kapi, Poi

fruit

Jackfruit

Cooked green as a curry in Kerala, Bengal and Sri Lanka, and eaten ripe and sweet in summer.

Goes into: Jolpan, Cendol, Kolak, Sayur lodeh

fruit

Lychee

A short, prized season in south China, Bihar and northern Vietnam. Mostly eaten fresh.

fruit

Durian

The king of fruits in Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, eaten fresh or with sticky rice.

Goes into: Tempoyak, Bánh da lợn

fruit

Mangosteen

Sold beside durian across Southeast Asia and eaten fresh, as its cooling partner.

fruit

Strawberry

The fruit of early summer in Europe, with cream in Britain and on the Swedish midsummer table.

Goes into: Eton mess, May wine, Chajá

fruit

Cherry

Eaten fresh, baked in clafoutis and pies, and cooked with rice in Iran. Sour cherries make soup in Hungary.

Goes into: Black Forest cake, Clafoutis, Risalamande

fruit

Apricot

Prized in Turkey, Central Asia and Ladakh, eaten fresh, dried, or made into jam and tarts.

Goes into: Qamar al-Din, Hamantash, Hoşaf

fruit

Peach and nectarine

High summer stone fruit for cobblers, pies, peach Melba, or eating over the sink.

Goes into: Chiles en nogada, Chajá

fruit

Watermelon

The fruit of hot weather everywhere, eaten in slices, as juice, or with white cheese in the Balkans.

vegetable

Rhubarb

Sour pink stalks, the first crop of the northern spring, for crumbles, pies, fools and compote.

Goes into: Toso

fruit

Pineapple

Eaten fresh across the tropics, grilled in Brazil, and baked into the tarts of Malaysia and Singapore.

Goes into: Rooh Afza, Al pastor, Canh chua, Chicha morada

fruit

Papaya

Eaten ripe at breakfast across the tropics, and shredded green for the salads of Thailand and Laos.

fruit

Jamun

The purple monsoon plum of India, sold on the street with salt for a few weeks only.

fruit

Avocado

Native to Mexico, mashed into guacamole, sliced onto tortas, and blended into shakes in Indonesia.

Goes into: Guacamole, California roll, Pozole, Chilaquiles

fruit

Passion fruit

Sharp and scented, for juice in Brazil and Colombia and on top of pavlova in Australia.

vegetable

Asparagus

The green spears of spring, steamed with butter or hollandaise, grilled, or stirred into risotto.

vegetable

White asparagus

Grown under earth and adored in Germany and the Netherlands, where the season ends on 24 June.

herb

Sorrel

A sour spring leaf for green borscht in Ukraine and Poland, and for sauce with salmon in France.

vegetable

Peas

Sweet for a few weeks in early summer. In north India fresh peas are a winter crop, for matar paneer.

Goes into: Samosa, Olivier salad, Aloo tikki, Bariis iskukaris

vegetable

Broad beans

Eaten raw with pecorino in Rome on May Day. Dried, they make ful medames and falafel in Egypt.

Goes into: Hilbet, Ta'ameya, Pachamanca, Minestrone

vegetable

New potatoes

Small, thin-skinned and sweet. Boiled with dill for the Swedish midsummer table.

vegetable

Tomato

At its best in high summer, for gazpacho, salads, and the sauces bottled for the year in Italy.

Goes into: Hamburger, Kebab, Borscht, Ratatouille

vegetable

Courgette

A summer squash. Its flowers are stuffed and fried in Italy and folded into quesadillas in Mexico.

Goes into: Ratatouille, Minestrone, Jjajangmyeon, Stuffed squash

vegetable

Okra

Thickens gumbo in Louisiana and soups in West Africa. Fried dry as bhindi in India, stewed in the Levant.

Goes into: Peanut stew, Kpekpele, Gumbo, Peanut soup

vegetable

Bitter gourd

Bitter by nature and prized for it: stuffed in India, stir-fried with egg in Okinawa, with pork in China.

Goes into: Chanpurū, Yong tau foo, Pinakbet, Shukto

fruit

Plantain

Harvested all year in the tropics. Fried green as tostones, ripe as dodo and maduros, or boiled and pounded.

Goes into: Pastelón, Fufu, Bhaji, Bandeja paisa

seafood

Crab

Brown crab in a British summer, blue crab in Chesapeake Bay, and hairy crab in Shanghai in autumn.

Goes into: Jaffna crab curry, Arròs negre, Po' boy, Chilli crab

seafood

Crayfish

Boiled with dill for August parties in Sweden, and with spice in Louisiana in spring.

Goes into: Nkwobi, Jollof rice, Po' boy, Moin moin

seafood

Herring

The first young herring of June is a Dutch event. Pickled for every Nordic feast day.

Goes into: Smörgåsbord, Labskaus, Dressed herring, Pickled herring

seafood

Hilsa

The monsoon fish of Bengal, steamed in mustard or fried. Catching it is banned while it spawns.

seafood

Sardines

Fattest in summer. Grilled whole on the streets of Lisbon and Porto for the June saints.

Goes into: Pasta con le sarde, Sardine, Sarde in saor

seafood

Mackerel

An oily summer fish, grilled, smoked or soused. Cured with vinegar for sushi in Japan.

seafood

Pacific salmon

Wild salmon runs from Alaska to Hokkaido, long the first food of the peoples of the north-west coast.

Goes into: Smörgåsbord, Gravlax, Lox, Lomi-lomi salmon

seafood

Skipjack (katsuo)

The first katsuo of early summer is a Japanese treat, seared over straw. Dried, it becomes dashi.

seafood

Eel

Grilled and glazed over rice in Japan on the midsummer day of the ox, for strength in the heat.

Goes into: Smörgåsbord, Unadon

Photos from Wikimedia Commons under free licences; credits on the sources page.

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

The weekly plate

Every Monday: seven dishes you may not know, what the world is cooking this week, and one way of eating.